Do’s and Don’ts for 2012

Resolve to follow these simple tips and save more of your hard-earned money in the new year!

Money Management

DO shop off-season. You’ll get the best deals on summer items during the winter, and vice-versa. Planning ahead— especially for major purchases— can save you a bundle.

DO make a budget. And use it! The best way to start? Write down every expense for a month to see where your money’s going.

DON’T make unbudgeted purchases without asking yourself: Do I need this? If I need it, do I need to buy it, or can I rent or borrow instead? If not, can I get it used? If not, wait 48 hours: Oftentimes, the urge to spend disappears.

DON’T be late paying your bills. There are so many ways to pay these days, that there’s hardly an excuse for paying a late fee, which can often be as high as $40. You can set up automatic payments with your bank’s online banking; or you can allow your vendors (the electric company, the phone company) to automatically debit your bank account or charge your credit card.

DO, the first time you’re late paying a company, call and politely request that the late fees be waived. They’ll often be understanding, as long as you’re not a repeat offender.

Banking

DO always be aware of your checking balance, especially if you’re automating your payments. Check in at least once a week.

DO watch for fees. Banks are seeking new ways to make money from their customers, and some experts are predicting the imminent end of free checking. ATM fees are a common danger zone: Transactions with your own bank’s ATMs are usually free, but you’re likely to be slammed if you use another bank’s ATM. In addition, banks are getting creative in coming up with whole new fee categories— for example, fees for paper statements, excessive transactions, and check imaging!— and becoming more punitive about late fees and overdraft charges.

DO consider switching to a credit union instead. The fees are lower, they don’t punish small balances, and they’re smaller targets for identity thieves. Find one at the National Credit Union Administration’s website: www.NCUA.gov.

DO use online resources such as bankrate.com to find the best rates on savings accounts, money markets, and CDs.

Credit-Card Debt

DO pay off your credit-card bill every month. If you can’t, then at least pay as much as you can. Regardless, be sure to submit your payment well before the due date, to avoid late fees.

DO consolidate and refinance your credit-card debt if you can’t pay it off soon. At the time of this writing, credit card companies are still eagerly hawking 0% balance transfers. Just be sure to check the small print, especially regarding the length of the low/no interest promotional period, the regular rate after the promotional period, and transfer fees.

DON’T pay an annual fee. There are many free alternatives out there, and the cards that offer rebates, cash back, travel awards, or other perks are often the most expensive.

Insurance

DON’T listen to insurance commercials that talk about “protecting” you. Insurance is a way to pay for misfortune, not avoid it. With that in mind, ask yourself who should pay for the relatively small stuff— $1,000 or so. If you can come up with that kind of money quickly, then there’s no point in paying an insurance company to do it. Raise your deductible and you’ll slash your premiums.

DON’T insure your old car like it’s new. Regardless of what you’re paying in premiums, your insurance company will only reimburse up to the “cash value” of the car. Stay on top of the Kelley Blue Book or Edmunds value of your car and be sure to drop any coverage you don’t need.

DON’T assume that you’re getting a good deal from your insurance company, even if you’re generally happy with them. Ways that they can make you even happier include:

• Lowering your rates based on new circumstances, such as a shorter commute, a new alarm system, or “safe driver” status.
• Giving you a multi-policy discount for bringing your auto, homeowners, and other insurance under one roof.

DO review all your insurance policies once a year, to make sure they still cover what you think they do. Worse than paying a little too much every year is paying way too much, to recover from misfortune because you were underinsured.

DON’T cancel an old policy without being absolutely sure that the new one is in effect.

Healthcare

DON’T continue unhealthy habits, like smoking. (Money is only the first thing you’ll save!)

DO practice healthy habits, like exercising.

DO ask for discounts if you’re paying cash— yes, even doctors and hospitals will sometimes haggle!

DON’T pay for name-brand medications if there’s a generic or OTC (over-the-counter) equivalent available.

DO find out if your medications are available through retailers (Walmart, for example), who offer staggering discounts on certain generics, as low as $10 for a 90-day supply.

As a wise person once said, “take care of the pennies, and the dollars will take care of themselves.” At Financial Sources, we know that your pennies and dollars are all part of your overall financial health. Give us a call; we’re happy to discuss either!

Download the Winter 2012 issue of the New Retirement, where this article appears.

Happy Holidays from FSI!

Good food, good entertainment, and good friends! The Meadows in Hellertown provided us with the perfect setting for this year’s Holiday Party.

Magician Joe Keppel of Keppel’s Magical Readings Programs kept all of the 187 clients and guests in attendance scratching their heads in disbelief at his amazing sleight-of-hand.

The extraordinary 18-piece band and singer of the Red Hill Band’s Jazz Band kept the room filled with sonorous holiday and big-band-style music; our guests graced the dancefloor all night.

If you missed this year’s party, never fear…we will have one again next year!

From all of us at Financial Sources, Inc., a very safe, blessed, and wonderful holiday season.

Financial Security the Regular Way

Everyone knows that the secret to investing success is simple: Buy low and sell high. The difficulty, of course, is knowing what’s high and what’s low.

Attempting to get into the market just before it rises or getting out just before it falls is called market timing, and in our experience there’s no  surer way to lose money and sleep at the same time. And perhaps the worst example of market timing is what’s called day trading. This involves buying investments—usually stocks—and then reselling them after a relatively short time, sometimes only hours or minutes. The theory is that if you do this often enough, the small profits you may make on each trade will accumulate into a large amount overall. The flaw in this plan is typically twofold:

First, as Warren Buffett once said: “In the short run, the market is a voting machine, but in the long run, it is a weighing machine.” He meant that, when viewed too narrowly, markets reflect emotion rather than reason. And, while irrational exuberance can be fast-moving, it’s no match for the speed of a desperate herd fleeing for safety: Losses often appear much more abruptly than gains, so it’s arguably harder to succeed within small timeframes than large.

Second, each trade usually involves a transaction fee, which comes out of your pocket, whether you win or lose. In short, day trading is not a strategy we recommend.

What we do recommend is its opposite, regular investing, which encompasses both of the great ideas discussed elsewhere in this issue: Compounding and risk management. The basic idea is that you decide on a fixed amount to invest at regular intervals (weekly, monthly, etc.), set the account to reinvest any gains, and then put it out of your mind. Over time, compounding will work its magic, enabling your earned money to earn even more, and so on, and so on. Meanwhile, because you have defined your contributions in dollars rather than (say) shares, you will automatically pick up extra shares when the stock is priced low, and avoid buying too many when it’s overpriced.

So, there you have it: One way to buy low. Selling high, however, is another matter. When it comes time to withdraw your funds, especially during retirement, the arithmetic becomes more complex. Lucky for you, Financial Sources has decades of experience in devising strategies for investors just like you. Give us a ring today and we’ll get you started.

Money and Life: Risky Business

The Gut-Test

One of the most important, questions that a financial advisor should ask you is “what is your tolerance for risk?” After that, one of the most important events in any investor’s life is the first time the market challenges your response, when it swoons (or tanks) after you’ve placed some money in it. Many of us who had considered our stomach for risk to be moderate or high, learn in a flash what our real tolerance is, when we watch thousands of dollars in gains—or, worse yet, savings— evaporate before our eyes.

But risk comes in more than just one flavor. In addition to the risk that your portfolio is too risky—and subject to the vagaries of the market—there’s also the risk that your investment profile is too conservative. For example, an investor who had her money entirely in cash would have emerged from the crash of 2008 relatively unscathed. But maintaining that profile during the ensuing years would mean that she’d have missed out on as much as 93% of gains in the Dow, 100% in the S&P, and a whopping 222% in the Nasdaq.*

As a wise person once put it: If you’re lucky enough to have two nickels to rub together, keep them in different pockets. This is the essence of what we call “asset allocation.” By balancing riskier investments like stocks with safer investments like cash, an investor can set a relatively smooth course between the dizzy heights and crushing lows of the market.

Unsure? Insure.

In addition to the hazards of investing—some unpredictable, others only a matter of time—life itself has risks that the savvy among us know to prepare for. How is this done? In a word: Insurance.

An ironic characteristic of insurance is that its cost rises with the likelihood that one will need it. For example, one of the least expensive forms of insurance, dollar for dollar, is homeowners insurance: A few hundred dollars a year will get you hundreds of thousands of dollars, should you ever need to replace your home. At the other end of the spectrum, there’s medical insurance, which costs the average American family more than $10,000 per year. The difference? Only a small percentage of homes are destroyed in a typical year. But just about every family avails of some amount of medical care, every year.

Perhaps the toughest decision to make with regard to insurance is which types are essential and which types you might realistically go without. For example, we’ve always encouraged our clients to consider life insurance instead as “income insurance.” That is to say, if no one is relying on your income—because you are childless and unmarried, or retired, or widowed—you might safely save yourself the cost of those premiums unless your status changes. Of course, all circumstances are unique, so we strongly suggest you contact us rather than taking this as direct personal advice.

* Source: Respective indices, March 6, 2009 vs. April 29, 2011.

The Most Powerful Force in the Universe

It’s a popular brainteaser in kids’ books and magazines:

Which would you rather have: $1 million right now, or a penny that doubles every day for a month?

Maybe you won’t be surprised to hear that most kids pick the wrong answer. Maybe you WILL be surprised to hear that most adults do, too.

If you opted for the cool million on the barrelhead, you just left $342,177 on the table. In fact, that’s what you’d have lost if the month in question was a non-leap-year February. After a 30-day month, you’d be down by $3,368,709. In January, March, May, July, August, October, or December, your bad decision would have cost you a whopping $9,737,418!

This leads to two natural questions:

1. How could a single penny grow in a single month to more than the salary of most of the Phillies?
2. How could three extra days earn an additional $9 million?

The answer to the first question is simple: Compounding. Compounding is the practice of adding gains—i.e., returns or interest—back into your principal. Our example used doubling, which naturally is well above the kinds of return that anyone could expect from a legitimate investment. But the effect of compounding of any kind is so extraordinary that even Albert Einstein is reported to have called it “the most powerful force in the universe.”

Perhaps even more interesting—and relevant to any investor—is our second question. How could three days make such a difference in our final results? It all depends on which three days. For example, in the first three days, the penny grows to eight cents. While that’s eight times the original value, it’s still only seven cents’ profit, because the principal is still so small.

But by day 28, the principal has grown to $1,342,177. So ANY multiplying—much less doubling—is going to have some impressive results. It reminds us of what Sam Walton, the founder of Wal-Mart, once said: “a small percentage of a really big number is still a big number.”

So, what else do you need to know in order to fully harness the awesome power of compounding? Compounding’s greatest enemy: Procrastination.

Back to our example: If you waited until halfway through the month (the 15th) to start your doubling, perhaps you think that would cut your results in half? Think again. Even at the end of the longest month, your take would be only $655.36. (No, we didn’t misplace the decimal.)

The lesson is clear: The longer you delay starting, the less likely your principal will be large enough to grow rapidly when you need it to.

Need help (or coaxing) getting started? Contact the FSI team, and maybe we’ll begin by discussing the Chinese proverb: “The best time to plant a shade tree is 20 years ago. The second-best time is now.”

Reversal of Fortune? (Part 1 of 3)

Before Applying for a Reverse Mortgage, Learn the Facts!

If you are retired or nearing retirement, you may be looking for a way to supplement your income, pay for healthcare expenses, or make necessary home improvements.  Historically, this has meant either selling your comfortable, cherished home or taking out a home equity loan and facing years of monthly payments. However, since 1989, homeowners have had another alternative:  the reverse mortgage.

What Is a Reverse Mortgage?

A reverse mortgage is a special type of loan that (if you are 62 or more) allows you to borrow against the equity built up in your home, while retaining title. The most basic difference between this and a standard mortgage? In a standard mortgage, you make payments to the lender; in a reverse mortgage, you receive payments from the lender.

Most reverse mortgages are Home Equity Conversion Mortgages (HECMs), which are federally insured and backed by the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD). Like regular mortgages, they are widely available through traditional lenders.  They involve no income or medical requirements, and the funds can be used for any purpose.

How much you can borrow depends on several factors, including:

• Your age,
• The type of reverse mortgage you select,
• The appraised value of your home, and
• Current interest rates.

In general, the more equity you have in your home— and the less you owe on the existing loan(s)— the more money you can get out of it.

You can choose among several payment options:

• Term Option: Fixed monthly payments for a specific time.
• Tenure Option: Fixed monthly payments for as long as you live in your home.
• Line of Credit: Draw down the loan proceeds at any time and in any amount until you have used up the line of credit.
• A combination of monthly payments and a line of credit.
• Lump sum (which is sometimes used to buy annuities or similar income-generating vehicles. 

There are some conditions: Before applying for a HECM, you must meet with an independent government-approved housing counselor (for a fee of around $125, which is usually rolled into the loan). The counselor is required to explain the loan’s costs and its financial implications for your situation, as well as possible alternatives. He or she should be able to help you compare the costs of different types of reverse mortgages and tell you how the various fees, payment options, and other costs will affect the total cost of your loan for its duration.

Additionally:

• You must also own your home entirely or be able to pay off your home loan with the proceeds from a reverse mortgage;
• You must live in your home; and
• Your home must meet certain criteria according to HUD. Qualifying homes include most single-family homes, as well as some condominiums, manufactured homes, and multi-unit structures that meet FHA requirements.

The loan becomes payable if:

• Your home is sold, usually because of death or relocation. In this event, you or your estate must repay the lender any cash you received from the reverse mortgage, plus interest and other fees (any remaining equity in the home is yours);
• You default on the loan, by not paying your property taxes or homeowner’s insurance; or
• The property conditions deteriorate and necessary repairs are not made.

Read Part 2

Reversal of Fortune? (Part 2 of 3)

Other Types of Reverse Mortgages

Proprietary reverse mortgages are private loans, backed by the companies that develop them.  While this is generally the most expensive reverse mortgage in terms of total cost, it may include a bigger advance if you own a higher-valued home. Some lenders offering proprietary reverse mortgages also require advance counseling, and how much you can borrow can also depend on your age, the appraised value of your home, and current interest rates.

Single-purpose reverse mortgages are offered by some state and local government agencies and nonprofit organizations.  These are generally the least expensive option, but they are not as widely available and can be used for only one purpose, which is specified by the government or nonprofit lender. For example, some lenders might restrict the funds to home repairs or improvements.  Others may specify that the loan may only be used for property taxes. However, when available, most homeowners with low or moderate income can qualify for these programs. If you plan to stay in your home for just a short time or borrow a small amount, a single-purpose reverse mortgage might be a good fit.

Is a Reverse Mortgage Right for You?

While the reverse mortgage can be a good option for some people in need of extra cash in retirement, there are many important cautions to consider.

Reverse Mortgages Can Be Costly

At the outset, reverse-mortgage lenders generally charge an origination fee, a mortgage insurance premium, and other closing costs. Some lenders also may charge servicing fees during the term of the mortgage. These costs can vary from lender to lender, even if the origination cost for your loan is dictated by law. 

You’re Spending Your Savings

According to HUD, the average age of borrowers has decreased from 77 to 73 years. While you can apply for a reverse mortgage as early as age 62, that’s not necessarily wise. As in many areas of retirement planning, the danger here is that you’ll outlive your savings, and have no equity to tap should you need long-term care late in life, when you’re most likely to need it. Keep in mind that, while the monthly payments may feel like income, you’re essentially spending down the portion of your life savings that’s accumulated in your home.

Fees Are Substantial

Up-front fees include:

• Mortgage insurance premiums (see below),
• Loan origination fees, and
• Closing costs.

Recurring fees include:

• Mortgage premiums,
• Interest, and
• Servicing fees.

As with standard mortgages, a HECM loan charges an insurance premium up front.  At this writing, it’s 2% of the home value— so, for example, if you own a home valued at $500,000, the insurance premium would be $10,000— whether the loan is for $20,000 or $100,000.

In October 2010, the HECM Saver loan debuted. This variation charges only 0.01% of the home’s value. However, this immediate advantage comes with costs: The HECM Saver usually carries a higher interest rate, and lending limits are both lower than the standard loan and dependent on your age.

Plus, both types of loan require borrowers to pay annual mortgage insurance premiums of 1.25% of the outstanding loan balance.

Read Part 1 | Read Part 3

Reversal of Fortune? (Part 3 of 3)

Is a Reverse Mortgage Right for You? (Continued)

Estate-Planning Considerations

As noted above, the loan becomes due upon the death of the person holding the mortgage. In the event of a joint mortgage (most often, spouses), this is not triggered until the death of the last partner. Because of this, it’s crucial to wait until both partners are 62 before taking out a reverse mortgage; otherwise the younger partner cannot co-sign, and could lose the house upon the death of the older partner.

Above all, you must have a will. Within it, you should include instructions on how to deal with the house and the mortgage upon your death. Should the proceeds from a sale be added to your general estate? Should they be bequeathed to a specific party? Instead, should other assets be used to pay off the loan and the house then bequeathed?

Clearly, there are many alternatives, and many factors to consider. It may not be the first thing you think of as you consider a reverse mortgage, but be sure that your preparations include a discussion with an attorney who specializes in Trusts and Estates.

Alternatives

In short, reverse mortgages are a good solution for some, but not all. Before signing the dotted line, consider other, often simpler and less expensive, options:

• Sell your home. Buying a smaller house often means less time and cost spent maintaining it. And renting rather than buying your new home often brings even more freedom.
• Get a roommate. Whether with a family member, friend, or just a boarder, sharing your space will bring financial benefits. It could also present opportunities to reduce your maintenance burden, and you may enjoy the company.
• Refinance. Instead of creating an income stream, maybe all you need to do is reduce your mortgage payments; if that’s the case, look into simply refinancing your existing mortgage. If all you need is a lump sum (say, for a home-improvement project), think about getting a home equity loan. Or, if you simply want a little breathing room in your finances, think about a home equity line of credit, or HELOC.

Thinking about whether a reverse mortgage makes sense for your circumstances? Financial Sources has not only extensive experience sorting through issues just like this for people just like you, but also an unrivaled network of fellow professionals to advise you on legal and tax matters. Contact us today at 1-800-450-0629 or fsi@financial-sources.com.   

Read Part 1 | Read Part 2

Choosing a Professional Tax Preparer

The IRS suggests the following as a guideline to assist you in choosing a tax preparer:

• Be wary of tax preparers who claim they can obtain larger refunds than others.
• Avoid tax preparers who base their fees on a percentage of the refund.
• Beginning January 1, 2011, a tax return preparer must have a preparer tax identification number (PTIN) to prepare all or substantially all of a tax return if the tax return preparer is being compensated for the preparation of the tax return.
• Use a reputable tax professional who furnishes his PTIN, signs the tax return, and provides a copy of the return to you.
• Consider whether the individual or firm will be around months or years after the return has been filed, to answer questions about the preparation of the tax return.
• Check the person’s credentials. Only attorneys, CPAs and enrolled agents can represent taxpayers before the IRS in all matters, including audits, collection and appeals. Other return preparers may only represent taxpayers for audits of returns they actually prepared.
• Find out if the return preparer is affiliated with a professional organization that provides its members with continuing education and other resources and holds them to a code of ethics.

Source: http://www.irs.gov/taxtopics/tc254.html3

Should I Do My Own Taxes?

Good Professional Help Could Pay for Itself

If you are among the 60% of tax payers who use a professional to file your taxes, have you ever wondered if you should try doing it yourself?

If you are among the 40% of tax payers who file their taxes on their own, have you ever wondered if you’d be better off using a professional?

There are many reasons why people choose not to do their own taxes. For example:

• They may rely on the expertise of their professional preparer to find the most deductions and to offer advice on current tax law.
• They may be daunted by the various forms and schedules required to complete their return.
• They may be attracted to the prospect of a quicker refund through electronic filing.
• They may not want to spend the time necessary for doing their own filing. (The IRS estimates that in 2010 this required over 21 hours for a typical tax return, and almost 32 hours if Schedules C or E were included.)

You might want to consider a tax professional, even if you usually file your taxes yourself, if:

• You own or have sold a business
• You have investment gains and losses
• You work in one state but live in another
• You have dividends or other income from foreign countries
• You have investment rental properties
• You have had a tax-free exchange of property
• You may be exposed to the alternative minimum tax (for information on the AMT, see the Winter 2009 issue of the New Retirement)
• You’ve gotten married or divorced

Regardless of your circumstances, however, there is one disadvantage to using a professional: Cost.

According to a recent National Society of Accountants survey, the average cost for preparing a federal 1040 form with itemized deductions, and state taxes is $229. Even without itemized deductions, you can expect to pay an average of $129. And, of course, the more complex you tax filing, the more it will set you back.

On the other hand, if you are single, don’t find yourself in the above-referenced circumstances, have a bit of computer savvy, or simply have more time than you have spare cash, you may be better off doing your return yourself. Look into tax prep software such as TurboTax or H&R Block’s At Home. These programs will guide you through the return with prompts and useful tips.

Just remember that you are responsible for the content of your tax return, whether you use a professional preparer or not. If you use a professional, make sure you pick a good one (see “Choosing a Professional Tax Preparer,” on page 4). If you do it yourself, be honest and accurate.

While we do not offer specific tax advice, Financial Sources has an extensive network of professional colleagues in the area who would be happy to help. Contact us today, at 1-800-450-0629 or fsi@financial-sources.com